July 23, 2003

Sufferin’ Succotash!

While writing the feature on Southern foods, I became fascinated with succotash. My journey meandered through definitions, Indian lore, planting instructions, and cooking methods, in dozens of cookbooks and internet sites. As the list of possible ingredients in succotash grew, I started making a list. Besides corn and beans, I found over one hundred other ingredients included in succotash recipes.

Here’s what International Recipes on Line has to say about succotash:
succotash [SUHK-uh-tash]
“ This southern United States favorite is a cooked dish of lima beans, corn kernels and sometimes chopped red and green sweet peppers. The name is taken from the Naragansett Indian word msickquatash , "boiled whole kernels of corn."

Succotash actually came from the Narragansett Indians in Rhode Island. (Way down south in Nantucket?) Corn, beans and squash were known as the Three Sisters by some Indian tribes. They would plant their corn in hills, not rows, and plant the beans around them. The beans would climb up the corn stalks, and later, the squash plants would grow around the perimeter and their broad leaves would shade the roots and prevent weeds.

Inevitably the corn and beans, and often some squash, would end up in the same dish. The beans were other varieties than limas, and it is just as probable that green beans appeared in the summer succotash and dried beans and corn in off-season versions. If you ask a Native American (or Emeril) for his recipe, you’d come up with beans with names like Painted Pony, Tongues of Fire, Appaloosa and Butterscotch Calypso.

Besides lima beans and corn—which may be fresh, canned, frozen, creamed or dried—the most common ingredients are salt and pepper, butter and/or cream, with perhaps thyme or another herb. Here are the others I found:

Fats (other than butter): Sesame oil, bacon fat, duck fat, grapeseed oil, peanut oil, olive oil, deer fat, bear fat

Beans (other than limas): butterbeans, shelling beans, navy beans, white beans, black beans, cranberry beans, soybeans, fava beans, pinto beans, green beans

Vegetables (other than corn and beans): black-eyed peas, green peas, snap peas, crowder peas, butternut squash, summer squash, squash blossoms, zucchini, carrots, tomatoes (canned, diced fresh, cherry, grape), celery, red and/or green bell pepper, okra, spinach, plantains, asparagus, potato, sweet potato, arugula, alaria (some kind of sea vegetable), tomatillos, hominy, pimiento, chanterelles

Protein: Hamburger, bacon, salt pork, lamb, pancetta, Tasso, Andouille, cheese, lobster

Herbs and spices: Sage, rosemary, thyme, dill, mint, cumin, cinnamon, oregano, summer savory, nutmeg, curry powder, cilantro, chervil, basil, paprika, parsley, coriander, cumin, bay leaf

Sweeteners: sugar (up to ½ cup!), maple syrup, molasses

Onions: Spanish onions, Vidalias, yellow onions, red onions, green onions, garlic, wild onions, chives, cipolinis, shallots, onion powder

Liquids (other than cream): Chicken broth, beer, evaporated milk, beef stock, milk, vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice (with zest)

Starches: Flour, bread crumbs, stuffing mix, cracker crumbs, black rice

Heat: poblanos, jalapenos, canned chilis, Tabasco sauce, chili powder, red pepper flakes

Not to mention: ketchup, mayonnaise, Worcestershire, sunflower seeds and vanilla beans

When is succotash not succotash? When you add ricotta and egg and stuff zucchini boats with it; thin with water and call it soup, or add ham and macaroni for a one-dish supper. Or freeze (tell-me-it’s-not-true) Succotash Ice Cream.

A vegetarian website touted a weird version with turnips, leeks, cider and dill but no beans, and a California version featured black olives and almonds. My personal favorite for the “what in the hell is this?” prize was Hawaiian Succotash with neither corn nor beans, but coconut milk, brown sugar, white rice, frozen peas and carrots, and mint, in a recipe serving 100.

Here is my version of a classic summer succotash, a far cry from the dreaded cafeteria combination of canned corn and canned lima beans.

Summer Succotash

2 cups fresh corn kernels, cut off the cob
1/2 to 3/4 lb. fresh tiny green beans (haricots verts)
2 tablespoons butter, divided
Water
1/4 cup heavy cream
Fresh thyme and/or chives
Salt and pepper

In separate medium saucepans, cook the corn and green beans, each with 1 tablespoon butter and 3 tablespoons water over medium heat until just done, about 5 minutes. Stir often. Salt and pepper the green beans but not the corn.

Combine the corn and beans. Add the cream and fresh thyme and chives to taste. Heat through and adjust seasonings. Serves about 6.

Grilled Chicken Kebabs with Orange Marinade

And to go with that succotash, chicken on the grill and sliced tomatoes. I usually do the kebab thing with white meat because of family preferences, but the boneless thigh meat would stay much juicier. You may wish to cut down on the sugar a bit.

1/2 cup butter, melted
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1 cup brown sugar
2 Tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 cups orange juice
3 Tablespoons orange liqueur
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
Several dashes of hot sauce

Boneless breast or thigh meat of chicken, cut into 1 inch pieces
Salt and pepper

Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes in water or use metal skewers.

Combine marinade ingredients and place in a glass baking dish which will accommodate the length of the skewers.

Thread the chicken pieces onto the skewers, packing fairly tightly. Place in marinade, cover and refrigerate for one hour or a little longer.

Salt and pepper meat and cook over a very hot fire, preferably charcoal, for several minutes, turning once.

You may also use two whole chickens, cut up, but marinate them all day and cook over a low fire, or finish cooking over indirect heat.

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