ruth cooks

 

November 5. 2003

Holiday Appetizers: Fast and Easy, Do-Ahead
And From-the-Pantry Appetizers

“Just bring an appetizer” is a phrase you might be hearing several times over the next two months of holiday revelries. Maybe you won’t have the time or inclination to make a fancy dish, but you don’t want to revert to the old cheese-ball-and-crackers, either. Right now, while you do have time, map out your plan, stock up your pantry and freezer so you’ll be ready when the time comes. Here are some strategies to consider.

1. Pick one or two dishes and stick with them. Unless the very same friends, co-workers and relatives will be attending all your parties, look for something that works and stick with it. By “works”, I mean that your appetizer disappears rapidly off the table and/or garners at least a few compliments or favorable comments. You’ll need to keep fewer ingredients on hand, and after repetition you’ll toss even complicated dishes without a thought.

If the gathering is informal, I almost always take deviled eggs. Sound plain and boring? Not only are there none left to take home, I’m lucky to get one for myself no matter how many I make.

   
2. It’s not the dip, it’s the dipper. Let’s face it, most of the easy appetizers are dips, spreads and cheeses. There are some really good ones, sure, but they’re routinely served with the same old chips and crackers. To me they’re sawdust-dry and never seem to go down unless I put about an inch of “stuff” on them. Consider taking a big basket of crostini, they’re so in fashion, and may be used with other people’s spreads and cheese platters.

The difference between crostini and bruschetta (the preferred pronunciation is broo-SKEH-tuh) is confusing, and even the food dictionaries don’t make it clear. Both involve very thin slices of a French baguette, extra virgin olive oil and frequently garlic, toasted in the oven.. I think of crostini as the toast bases, which become bruschetta when you top them with something substantial. Ideas other than the usual fresh tomato-basil topping are marinated red peppers and white bean spread (similar to hummus). Either homemade or ready to use toppings from the gourmet grocery are olive or tuna or artichoke tapenade, Caponata, and basil or sun-dried tomato pesto.

For a good keep-on-hand appetizer, freeze a bunch of toasts and have the pantry stocked with several suitable spreads and ingredients for a do-it-yourself bruschetta bar. You’re ready to grab and go, or serve drop-in guests. Thanks for this idea to Jim Davis, who with his son, Brian, runs The Really Good Food Company,* a personal chef service in Gaithersburg, MD.

And here’s a bruschetta idea from another personal chef, Julie Cicero of Tastebuds* in Nashville, TN, for Apricot-Almond Bruschetta with Melted Brie. “You make a mixture of extra virgin olive oil, garlic and rosemary and brush onto baguette slices. Toast on both sides in the oven. Then mix apricot preserves with grated lemon zest, brush on the oiled side of the bread, top with a piece of Brie, add some toasted sliced almonds. Broil until cheese melts.” You could make these at home and broil after arriving at the party.

And finally, a no-cook idea for a spread: Buy a whole pineapple and cut in half, vertically from top to bottom so each half has green leaves. Set aside one half for another use. Hollow out one half. Just before serving, fill center with pineapple cream cheese and serve with cinnamon-raisin bagel chips.

   
3. As an alternative to cooking, help the hostess. Perhaps she needs someone to bring a special coffee or some drink mixers, or to pick up a last minute goodie at the bakery or deli. Maybe she’d like your help in rounding up the used napkins and dishes during the party, or keeping the buffet table filled. You may not have to cook at all to be invaluable.
   
4. Consider the low-carbers. Appetizer buffets are rampant with carbs in the form of bread, pastries and crackers. Here are some easy ideas for the low carbohydrate dieters:

Cut in half thin slices of roast beef from the deli, spread with horseradish cream cheese and roll up with a few whole chives sticking out one end.

Place a spoon of egg salad along the bottom half (stem end) of a leaf of Belgian Endive or inner leaf of Romaine. Sprinkle egg with a few radish sprouts and/or a slice of radish or some paprika. Place on plate like the spokes of a wheel, egg salad end at the center.

Place a folded square of smoked salmon on a slice of cucumber. Top with crème fraiche, sour cream or whipped cream cheese and sprinkle with capers.

Go to the olive bar at the supermarket and buy small quantities of different olives. Combine with a few garlic cloves and strips of roasted red pepper, and marinate in good olive oil.

Serve cold roasted asparagus spears with homemade herb mayonnaise, or blanched and chilled sugar snap peas with horseradish sauce, the kind usually served with roast beef. Garnish plates with grape or cherry tomatoes.

Roll balls of cream cheese in chopped, toasted almonds and press down in the center to form a “thumbprint” depression. Fill centers with red and/or green hot pepper jelly. I call these Rositas. Don’t roll in almonds or fill too far ahead or they get soggy; just before going to the party is fine. (OK, so the jelly isn’t so good for the low carb people, but their consciences can guide them.)

   
5. For the sweet tooth. No matter what the occasion, some people always like a bite of something sweet at the end. So…………

If you bake your own Christmas cookies, plop, er…arrange them on the platter and you’ve got it made. Only the fancy, smaller, more delectable ones, please—huge gingerbread boys or everyday chocolate chippers somehow aren’t festive, do you think?

If you know a good bakery, buy some delicious and fancy looking individual desserts. If they’re too large, cut them into bite sized pieces. Truffles, high-end chocolates and those beautiful strawberries with long stems may share the tray.

Melt some chocolate for a fondue pot and serve with toasted cubes of Pannetone, Italian Christmas bread. I’ve made my own, but there are pretty good store or bakery versions available this time of year.

   
6.

General tips.

Pretty it up. Choose a complimentary serving vessel and whatever you make, garnish the heck out of the plate, platter or bowl. Garnishes make everything look much more appetizing. Use green and black olives, parsley or other herbs, hard cooked egg wedges, radishes or other vegetables cut into shapes. The food itself may provide the garnish, such as serving bunches of red and green grapes on a cheese platter.

Green onion brushes are one of my favorite garnishes. Clean them and cut off the tops to make uniform, about 6 inches in length. Cut into thin julienne strips at both ends, leaving attached to a 1 1/2 or 2 inch piece in the center. Place in ice water for an hour up to overnight and the strips will curl up. Drain well.

Serve things IN things. Serve little sandwiches in a hollowed out bread loaf. If it’s a dip or spread, serve it in a hollowed out vegetable such as a cabbage or green or red pepper. Or place the container in a nest of ornamental kale leaves. Stick skewers of cheese or fruit in a grapefruit.

Always provide some kind of silverware for serving. A spoon for the dip to avoid the distasteful and unsanitary custom of double dipping (cutting foods into small pieces discourages this also), a pie server for pastries, tongs for vegetables, fruits, cheeses and meats. If toothpicks or skewers are used, provide a plate for the used ones…just throw a couple of broken toothpicks on the plate to give guests the idea.

   
7. It’s my party and I’ll cook if I want to. Suppose you are hosting your own holiday bash. Do you have to make all of the food yourself? Nah.

Throw your own bring-a-dish/pot luck and have everyone bring something. Or have just a few friends help you out with the menu you’ve chosen.

Use some of the above ideas to make it easy on yourself: buy many of the foods in deli and specialty shops and give them a twist. Add two or three hot appetizers to wow and impress.

What about a more casual kitchen party? Serve two or three kinds of homemade soup, good French bread, some fruit and a dazzling dessert that someone else made.

* You can a personal chef in your area (see www.personalchef.com) and have someone come to your house for a day and fill your freezer with appetizers. Or, for that matter, with Christmas cookies, sides or busy day casseroles.

Holidays are supposed to be about having fun and relaxing, so only go all-out in the kitchen if that’s what cooking is for you.

Chili-Cheese Squares

This is not a particular favorite of mine—because it contains chilies—but I have to tell you about it because almost everyone who tastes these is crazy about them. You could also serve this as a breakfast or brunch casserole. And it’s so easy to make, another “bring an appetizer” recipe I fall back on.

Perhaps I should mention the reason for my aversion to chilies and most things Mexican. Almost 40 years ago, I spent a week of vacation in Mexico and got violently ill every time I ate something “hot”. This illness continued for about 6 weeks after my return, and the revenge turned out to be not Montezuma’s, but Christopher’s. He was born about seven months later.

2-4.5 ounce cans of green peeled chilies, whole or chopped

6 eggs
Salt and pepper
1/2 teaspoon prepared yellow mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 clove garlic, finely minced
20 ounces grated sharp cheddar cheese (the original called for 2-10 ounce packages of Cracker Barrel Sharp, grated, but the pre-shredded is a great temptation)

Butter or spray a 9 x 11 inch baking dish. Preheat oven to 325 degrees for glass or 350 degrees for metal.

Rinse chilies and drain well in a sieve. If whole, cut open to lay flat and remove the seeds if you prefer. If chopped, rinse and drain. Arrange chilies to cover the bottom of the baking dish, but it won’t matter if there are some gaps.

Beat eggs, salt and pepper (as if you were scrambling them, the cheese has a lot of salt), mustard, Worcestershire sauce and garlic, just until combined. Stir in cheese and pour over chilies. Spread to an even thickness.

Bake for 30-35 minutes. Serve hot or warm, cut into squares.

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