December 17, 2003

We discussed fast and easy appetizers in November, but aren't there are times when you want something dramatic or impressive to start a special dinner for friends? It's more fun if they're friends who appreciate good food and time spent in the kitchen, especially when there's extra work involved. These particular extravaganzas are versions of those served at various “Gourmet Club Dinners” over the years.

One couple that was especially our “gourmet” friends had a lovely Christmas tradition. He traveled extensively, and would pick up little tidbits and goodies throughout the year and present her with a box of wonderful foods and cooking paraphernalia at Christmas. What a joy it would be to open a box of, for example, plum pudding; jellies and jams; imported olives; tubes of anchovy and wasabi and tomato paste; candied chestnuts; vanilla beans; dulce de leche; exotic rose and orange blossom waters; and Fleur de Sel with a ceramic salt grinder. Now that's my idea of a perfect gift. As a matter of fact, I just bought some of those very items myself, using a gift certificate to King Arthur Flour.

Rolled Chicken Plate

This elegant appetizer may be completely prepared one or two days before serving, and should freeze OK although I haven't tested that. You'll need a very sharp knife, as prosciutto is not the easiest thing to slice. The recipe may be doubled—without much more work—for a buffet crowd, but you'll want to serve with make-ahead crostini rather than last-minute toast.

Yes, I know there's a pound of butter, but richness is what pate's all about, isn't it?

1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 stalk celery, thinly sliced
1 carrot, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons salt
2 large whole chicken breasts with bones and skin
1 or 2 large pork chops, total of 6-7 ounces on the bone

3/4 lb. unsalted butter, softened
1/3 cup cognac
Several dashes hot sauce
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or tarragon (I like tarragon)
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup shelled green pistachio nuts

1 lb. prosciutto ham, sliced as thinly as possible without tearing up the slices

For serving:
Salad greens for garnish (the curly ones are nice)
Freshly made triangles of hot buttered toast or crostini 

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet, and add sliced onion, celery, carrot, salt, chicken and pork. Cover and cook over medium heat until meats are just tender. Cool.

Remove skin, bone and fat from meats and discard them. Chop the meat finely—but not so finely that you have puree—in a food processor, using the pulse feature. (You will not be using the vegetables and drippings, so tuck them away in the freezer to enrich a future soup or gravy.)

By hand, using a wooden spoon, beat the butter until fluffy and add the COMPLETELY COOLED chopped meats. If the meat is the least bit warm, it will partially melt the butter and turn the mixture greasy. Gradually add in the cognac, hot sauce, basil or tarragon, pepper to taste and pistachio nuts. The mixture should be highly seasoned, so taste and adjust. Set aside.

Tear off two pieces of wax paper or parchment paper. On each one, lay half the prosciutto slices overlapping to make a rectangle. The size of your rectangle will determine the diameter of the pate slices, but 12” to 14” x 8” would be a good estimation. Place half the pate mixture along the long side of each rectangle. It should be in the form of a log, not spread out. Roll up tightly with the ham, but do not squeeze. Place each roll in a piece of plastic wrap and twist the end in opposite directions to help shape and tighten the rolls. Chill for 24 hours or longer.

To serve, arrange salad greens on platter (or on individual plates if you wish). Cut half inch slices of pate and arrange in a single layer on top. Serve with toast or crostini. About 12 servings of 4 slices each (or 16 servings of 3), depending on the size.

Sweet-Hot Mushrooms 

Your guests will need a plate and fork for these beauties, so you may want to serve them as a first course at table. There is a commercial sauce available called Jezebel's Sauce, which is an approximation of the sauce below. The Pepper Patch in Franklin TN makes the one I use, and you can order from them on-line to make this appetizer even easier.

16 large mushrooms, cleaned and stems removed for another use
1 3-ounce pkg. cream cheese, room temperature
8 slices bacon, cut in half 

Sauce:
1/2 cup pineapple jam or preserves
1/2 cup apple jelly
2 tablespoons horseradish, or more to taste
1 Tablespoon dry mustard

If you wash your mushrooms, be sure to pat them dry with paper towels before proceeding.

Fill the mushroom cavities with cream cheese. Wrap each mushroom with 1/2 slice of bacon so that the cream cheese is covered. Place, cream cheese side down, on a baking sheet, and keep refrigerated until about 10 minutes before serving.

Combine jam, jelly, horseradish and dry mustard and place in a small serving dish. If you do this ahead, let it come to room temperature for serving.

Fifteen minutes before serving, preheat the broiler. Broil the mushrooms until the bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn mushrooms over and broil the other side until bacon is crisp.

Pass sauce separately.

Blini are little Russian pancakes usually made with buckwheat flour and served with caviar. Here is a recipe made with white flour and served with a savory spread that imitates Boursin, a French herb cheese. No way does it taste like the poor man's version, but you may add caviar or squares of smoked salmon if the budget allows. It adds to the fun if you can make blini to order in the kitchen or on a portable electric grill or skillet in another room.

Boursin Spread:
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon chopped chives
2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Pinch of ground thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Blini Batter:
1 3/4 cups lukewarm milk
1 envelope (1 tablespoon) dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 eggs, separated
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chives

Boursin Dip: That day, or the day before, whip the cream cheese until light, then blend in the sour cream. Add chives, green onions, parsley, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until serving time.

Batter hint: Handle very gently to avoid any gluten development. About two hours before serving, make the starter. Mix 1 cup of the milk, the yeast, sugar and 1 cup flour. Cover and let rise for about an hour, or until the mixture is bubbly. Add in order the remaining flour, egg yolks, milk and salt. Whip the egg whites, then the cream, and fold one into the other. (If you do it in this order you can use the same bowl, just turn the egg whites out onto a piece of waxed paper, then wipe the bowl out with a paper towel before proceeding to whip the cream.) Slowly add the batter to the egg white-cream mixture, stirring gently as you do. Let batter sit one more hour.

To cook blini: cook on a preheated griddle, 425 degrees if electric, brushed with clarified butter (traditional) or oil. Pancakes should be small, using 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons batter for each. When the bubbles rise to the surface, turn the blini and cook briefly on the other side. To keep warm for a short time, transfer to a baking sheet and loosely cover with foil. Keep in a 300 degree oven.

It's best to serve as soon as made; to eat, place a small spoon of cheese mixture on the blini, fold over and pop in your mouth. Makes dozens.

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