ruth cooks |
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Miss Marigold and the Pork Foam “Sorry I’m late, dearie,”said Miss Marigold as she slid into the booth across from me. “What’s today’s special? Not pork foam, I hope…” and she trailed off, looking at the menu the tearoom server set before her. “Pork foam? What on earth is pork foam?” “That’s what I wanted to know when I saw that recipe from Mario on the Food Network. Gave me visions of a wild pig with rabies, careening down the road, frothing pink foam at his mouth. Turns out it was some kind of salami mousse with cherry sauce. He’s gone too far, this time. Of course, they’ve all gone too far looking for something different.” “They being who, exactly?” I asked, trying to decide between the Hot Brown and the Creamed Chicken on Cornbread. “Why the so-called professionals, the TV gurus, the culinary schools, the fancy restaurant chefs. Trying to outdo each other with wild ingredients, crazy combinations and unbelievable complications.” As the server stood there practically tapping her foot, Miss Marigold ordered her favorite, a trio of rolls with chicken salad, ham salad and egg salad with a cup of tomato bouillon. I ordered the Hot Brown, idly wondering how this particular restaurant would deviate from the Brown Hotel’s original recipe of large croutes (crusts removed, buttered on both sides and baked until golden brown, not to be confused with mere toast), breast of turkey, sauce Mornay and bacon. “Talk about complicated,” said Miss M., continuing where she left off, “how about this technique they’re calling ‘deconstruction’ where they take apart a perfectly good dish, and make another dish, usually questionable in my opinion, using all the parts. I read on e-Gullet where some guy from Canada was making a dessert he called ‘Almost a Carrot Cake’. It was made of cream cheese panna cotta, carrot gelee, cinnamon crumble, and a carrot and pineapple salad. And here’s goodie from the Food Network: Warm Mango Tart Tatin on Coconut Meringue with Papaya Sorbet, Tangerine Honey Sauce and Oven-Dried Spiced Pineapple Chips. Imagine making five recipes for only one dessert. I thought of a good name for that one…Tropical Overkill. The main course recipes used to call for ingredients, like butter, meat, wine…now they call for reductions and infusions and gastriques, gelees and confits, pollens and dusts. You might think it’s an economist, a doctor or the weatherman talking.” “Dusts,” I asked, “as in tangerine dust, where you dry and powder the zest?” “That’s right, but that one is fairly tame compared to pond scum.” Nearly choking on my iced tea, I had to ask. “Surely, there’s no such thing as people eating pond scum?” “Read it right in the New York Times,” said Miss Marigold, “all the news that’s fit to print or whatever. Seems in some far country, the natives scrape the river algae off the rocks when the water is low, and make some dish with it. I don’t know if they consider it a delicacy or are simply starving to death. River algae, my foot. Sounds like pond scum to me!” As our food arrived, my Hot Brown appearing to be perfectly made, I said, “Sounds like time for a change in subject to me. Tell me, what are you going to be cooking tonight?” “I thought I might make some of that Pink Applesauce you mentioned a while back, if you’ll give me the recipe. Got some nice pork chops at the butcher this morning, and there will be no foam involved.” “It’s a deal, Miss M., if you give me your recipe for the Oatmeal Cookies I had last time at your house. I’ve been craving them ever since.” Cooks, Illustrated started with the oatmeal cookie recipe on the back of the Quaker Oats box and made four changes for a more chewy, more moist, and more substantial cookie with real oat flavor. First, they substituted baking powder for baking soda to give the dough more lift, which in turn made the cookies less dense and a bit chewier. Second, they eliminated the cinnamon to revealed more oat flavor. Third, they made their cookies really big, doubling the amount of dough most recipes recommend dropping onto the cookie sheet to get more moisture and more chewiness. Fourth, they increased the sugar, making a huge difference in terms of texture and moistness. You can reduce the white sugar by one-quarter cup, but you will lose some crispness. Do not overbake these cookies. The edges should be brown but the rest of the cookie should still be very light in color. They made 16 to 20 cookies, IMO much too large. I made 30 (heaping 2 oz. scoop) and they still were large! Tried flattening them and baking at a lower temp (the edges got brown before the middle was cooked) but toasted oat flavor did not develop. Try toasting the oats. 2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, softened but still firm Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of your electric mixer (or a large bowl), combine flour, salt, baking powder and nutmeg with a whisk. Turn out onto waxed paper. In the same bowl, beat the butter with the paddle attachment or by hand until creamy. Gradually add the sugars, beating until fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time. Beat or stir in the dry ingredients, mixing only until no dry flour is visible. Stir in the oatmeal and raisins. Form large balls with a heaping two-ounce dipper, 12 to a sheet, on parchment paper or foil lined baking sheet. If you do not have a dipper, this is the equivalent of two rounded, but not heaping, tablespoons. Bake approximately 16-18 minutes or until edges are brown but centers are not quite done. Cool on racks. Makes about 30. Suggestions for variations: add or substitute dates, chocolate chips and/or nuts for raisins. This could be called, “Not Your Mother’s Applesauce,” as it is an adult version with brandy. I saw Martha Stewart make something similar on TV but didn’t write it down, thinking I could get the recipe off the net. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find it. Fortunately, mine was wonderful. At first, I used more lemon juice and the applesauce turned out pinker—but this necessitated adding more sugar, so I cut it back. If you like chunky applesauce, you can peel the apples and mash with a potato masher instead of pureeing, but it won’t be pink. Add more sugar and fold some whipped cream into the cold applesauce and you have dessert: Apple Fool. Remember this for Apple Fool’s Day coming up. (Sorry.) 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of apples, preferably MacIntosh (7 or 8 large) Wash, quarter and core the apples. In a large saucepan with enough water to cover the bottom about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep, cook the apples and lemon juice, covered, over medium high heat until apples are soft. Puree the apples in a food mill—or a sieve, if you don’t have a food mill—to remove the skins. Most of the water should have evaporated. Return to pan and cook a little longer if it seems too soupy. Stir in brown sugar, butter and brandy. Adjust to your taste. ©Copyright 2003 - All Rights Reserved |